Bolivia

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In about half an hour we are taking a train to Uyuni, which is in the south of Bolivia and has these amazing salt pans. I know that sounds odd, but the views are supposed to be incredible. I will let you know. We will then cross over into Chile. Sian and Sue will shoot down to Santiago; Arthur will go north to fly home; and Kate and I will slowly make our way down to Santiago for Christmas. Ok, now if this does not save I will probably go to a Bolivian prison because I will kill someone...


December 8

In San Pedro Chile Ok, my web page is a bit in tatters. The Peru page is gone but Loren is working on fixing it.

We spent the last four days in Bolivia taking a four-day trip through the desert and saltpans of southern Bolivia. This is Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid territory and it is where they met their unfortunate demise. The tour included transportation which was supposed to be a brand new four wheel drive but which was really a very old Toyota four wheel drive that a bungee cord holding the suspension together in the front and tape holding it together in the back. The windows on the passenger side did not open and were taped together on the other side. All in all - a piece of junk. We were very leery considering we did not want to get stuck in the middle of the desert as there really are no towns or people for hundreds of miles. But we wanted to leave and did not want to wait for another day so we piled in - 7 of us - the girls, Arthur and two other people and me. Our driver was cranky and made it clearly known that if we gave him grief he would be more of a knucklehead. He also had an extremely bad habit of falling asleep at the wheel.

We started our trip through Salar de Uyuni - which is a 12,000 km salt flat and one of the most unbelievable sights I have ever seen. Imagine the Great South Bay but only take away the water and leave the salt - that is what it looks like. It was once a huge sea - 100 million years ago but has since evaporated and left just the salt and other minerals to bake in the desert sun. The landscape was blinding - like being in a huge snowfield, white as far as the eye could see. Photo opportunities abounded and we went a bit mad snapping away. In the center of the salt pans are two hotels which are completely made out of salt - beds and all.. We stopped for a drink and a few more photos and then continued to an island. Well, it was once an island but is now just surrounded by salt flats. It was wild hiking to the top to see the 360 views of the once blue sea but now a field of white. The sun was intense and we all felt a bit dizzy - and of course the 12,000-foot altitude also had an effect.

There are no paved roads in the desert and it felt like a mad race. Other jeeps were racing along beside us to the next destination. There were about 6 jeeps in all and of course because of our rattrap car we always got to the destination last!! That night we slept in a small (extremely) village. The town was out of the salt flats and in the desert and was absolutely colorless - just a drab brown. I would completely lose my mind if I had to live there. The hundreds of llamas did not seem to mind and again provided photo opportunities for us.

The next day we piled in our rattrap car again and drove to the geysers which at an altitude of 14,000 feet were amazing. There were also craters bubbling with mud at a temperature of 180 degrees celsius. Pretty eerie landscape and very difficult to breathe so we only stayed for an hour. Then headed to Laguna Verde on the border of Chile, an impossibly green lake bordered by a perfect cone-shaped mountain - more pictures.
Then it was time to say goodbye to Arthur and our other friends at the border to Chile - many tears and hugs. We crossed over into Chile in a very sombre mood and lightened up at the sight of paved roads and the prospect of excellent food and wine in our immediate future. Our fourth country............

 


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